Tramps in trees, Sam being shot at, camels in trucks, kids with guns and the Spice Girls…just an idea of some of the stories in the below updates!
It’s been a long time coming but at least you now have reading material for a while whilst enjoying a few cups of tea and some dunking goodness!
Check out the new blogs below:
Tunisia: Sfax – Insane Riding and Tramps in Trees
Tunisia: Sfax – Family Fun and Chickens the size of Children
Tunisia: Tozeur – Road Tripping
Tunisia: Tozeur – Star Wars and Sand People
Tunisia: Tozeur – Mos Espa Star Wars Set
Tunisia: Tozeur – Salt Pans, Star Wars, Sand Storms and Sleeplessness
Tunisia / Libya: Border Crossing and Cous Cous Kindness
Libya: Road Blocks, Bullet Riddled Cars and Explosions
Libya: Tripoli – Medina
Libya: Tripoli – Leptis Magna and Villa Selene
Libya: Tripoli to Egypt Crossing – Tanks, Kids with Guns and the Spice Girls
More to come as well as updates to galleries and other sections of the site :)
Keep Smiling people and catch you soon!Share this
HEY hey KIDS! We’ve arrived just about safely in Alexandria, Egypt. We have had an incredibly eye opening and surreal journey through Libya and also at the border crossing.
Again, we cannot reinforce our thanks to family and friends old and new who have helped us through this leg of the journey! The care, concern and hospitality of everyone has been phenomenal! Thank you so much!
Libya was fantastic, we both cannot wait to return when it’s had a bit more time to settle and head to the Southern Deserts. It’s truly a stunning place and will be an up and coming area to visit in the future we have no doubt! GO LIBYA!
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Yesterday we took a day our to go on a bit of a tour to Leptis Magna and Villa Selene – Roman ruins an hour and a half out from the metropolitan city that is Tripoli. Quite simple, the whole day was STUPENDOUS. We have never experienced such beauty. It completely blew our minds. The size and scale of the ruins were just amazing… I was overwhelmed with the whole area and to think only 30% had been uncovered just made you jibber. I have no idea how the Romans managed to construct these places!
We were fortunate to have a truly superb tour guide with us, Jamal, a local who’s passion is the history of Libya. With astounding English he took his time to guide us around the sites answering all of our questions without hesitation and taking great pleasure at our exasperation in the sites. The day itself was stunning too with eerie ghost-buster like clouds looming over us and the ruins. Fortunately we only experienced a couple of down pours but nothing a shake of a leg and burst of sunshine didn’t dry off.
I had so many moments of “wow”ness that it’s hard to pick any favourite areas but I think the two sections which had the most impact was the New Forum and Amphitheater. The New Forum is just of a incomprehensible size. It’s gigantic. Jamal explained to us that what was still standing is only half the height of the original build… which when you took time to sit and take it all in left you stood gawping. The amphitheater too was pretty much fully intact and blooming ENORMOUS! You could run around the tunnels and see the exotic animal traps, all whilst you could hear the roar of the ocean just beyond.
It was simply phenomenal. Not only that but we were there for hours… absolutely hours… and in that time we only saw two very small families from a far. The rest of the time we had the place entirely to ourselves. Just a phenomenal experience.
Villa Selene too was just undeniably breath taking. A small Roman Villa on it’s own private cove over looking the Mediterranean… it was a perfect harmonious place to be. Built with such detail and attention the whole Villa is top to toe in delicate and awe-inspiring mosaics. It’s nice to see too that the Romans had a sense of human with one mosaic depicting a story of two Pygmies trying to capture an alligator followed by another where the alligator had nommed one Pygmy and his mate was trying to pull his friend out from it’s jaws! Funny expressions!
When we stopped for lunch we met some wonderful locals and a lovely Australian lady who has been on the road with her husband now for years in an effort to raise monies for epilepsy and cancer for children. How utter awesome is that? :)
All in all Libya has so far proven to be amazing. Absolutely amazing. We are loving every minute of it here, the places and people are just tremendous! We both cannot wait to return when the times have settled a bit so we can visit the desert and oasis in the South!
Tomorrow we unfortunately have to leave which saddens us a little and also makes us a little nervous as we are heading away from the safety of Tripoli and into the zones which are a little bit dangerous. Thankfully our friend Muhammad has arranged for our bikes to be put on a Libyan truck and covered for the trip meaning we will be much more inconspicuous and hopefully not draw so much attention. He has been an absolute star in helping us through this section and inspiring us with confidence – we cannot thank him enough! Alongside our parents and friends who have remained in constant contact, thank you all again so so much :) We will post again in the near future!Share this
We have just come back from wondering through the Old City in Tripoli. It’s a maze of streets and alleys with something different on every corner you look. We were lost within minutes and ended up bundling through a busy market where we stood out like sore thumbs! Because there is now little or no tourism in Libya and there hasn’t been for sometime it is obvious that we were both of interest and in some areas perhaps aggravation. We spoke to a few people, including a group of guys playing fuss-ball who were all friendly enough and more than happy to say hello!
We did, however, stumble upon a square which we think was surrounded by government buildings. As soon as we walked in from a small alley I spotted a car with anti aircraft artillery on the back… then a few steps later clocked two teenagers with AK47s. By this time we were centre of the square and had no choice but to continue to what we hoped was a main street, passing by two elderly fellas also propping up guns. To say we cacked ourselves a little would be an understatement, but again they greeted us and offered no harm. It’s been explained to us that being able to differentiate between militia and military is pretty much impossible as many are just plain clothed so we were pretty darn uncomfortable. Not only that, but kids are still throwing fire crackers around so the bangs as we just exited the square did enough to skip a heart beat or two!
We did pass by a local mosque but unfortunately no one was there to let us in. All in all you can see how amazingly wonderful and incredible this place is. It is definitely a place I would recommend people to visit and see as it has so much to offer but perhaps after this period of uncertainty has passed.
Tomorrow, Roman Ruins! Very excited. Will try and post more when we can – very slow connection speeds here so hang on with us :)Share this
Sam had been shot. I saw it happen. I heard the gun go off. I watched him swerve. My heart leapt into my mouth and my unusually calm collected mind crumbled. In a moment of weakness my bike lurched and swerved in to the direction of a parked car…
It is early January 2013 and as of the day before the Home Office were frantically pulling all British Nationals out of Benghazi, Libya due to imminent threat of hostage takings, murders and violence towards Westerners from the militia and Al-qaeda. With the ongoing hostage situation in bordering Algeria, the war torn country Libya is in a state of absolute unrest and thus deemed high risk to terrorist activity… and there we were riding through the hub of it on our loud, brash, Western motorbikes.
We had crossed the border earlier that morning and on the instruction of many locals, friends and border guards we were hammering it through without stopping to our friend in Tripoli where we had been reassured we would be safe. Sam had been holding up great, although the nerves in his voice and eagerness to ride at speed to get through fast was evident. The road conditions were pretty diabolical and the car driving utterly insane. With truck sized pot holes and plenty of traffic we were playing a constant game of chicken and dodgems. Normally, given any other ordinary and uneventful day, I would be nervous riding at such a pace but for one reason or another I was void of such emotions and just focused on concentrating. I think this was perhaps due my history with the Police. It would seem in life threatening, high intense or dangerous situations I am able remain uncannily calm and level headed, sometimes in almost a scarily desensitised and detached way. My energy and concentration channels into resolving the situation as quickly and safely as possible whilst remaining vigilant and in control despite any form of frenzy going on around me.
For example, earlier that day we suddenly found ourselves wedged inbetween cars in a huge chunk of traffic. As we edged our way around the corner into view came a blockade of people… non military… all shouting rather angrily wielding AK47’s. Some of them were just kids and to be fair angry kids with guns wasn’t an ideal Friday afternoon ride we wanted to be in, especially with the current political situation. Although the adreniline was pumping I cannot recall feeling scared. All I was doing was searching for an escape route as far away from the blockade as possible for us both to safely scoot round without being noticed… not easy when you’re on two KTM 690 Enduro R 2012’s with their baffles removed! Nevertheless we managed to barge past various cars and although it was indicated for me to stop by a frowning gun waving bearded man, I kept rolling pretending I had not seen, keeping a truck in between as a form of cover and excuse. Round the corner we bore witness to a freshly shot up car with very disgruntled looking occupants. Again, no fear, no concern, just focus. It’s odd… I don’t know what my mind does but it just works like that
However. My Sam being shot at… that changed everything. All emotions possible came flooding in at once and I all but flat lined on that back street. It took me nearly a moment too long to reset my brain and recover all senses and in the nick of time I managed to wrench my bike back on the road and away from crumbing into the back of a car. Sam had continued riding… I realised I was shouting in my helmet asking him to confirm he was okay and with nothing but swearing as I response I suddenly caught in my peripheral vision a laughing child with a fistful of fire crackers. It then dawned on me what had happened.
The little *******!!
My heart pounded back into a steady motion and I explained to the now-needing-new-pants-Sam he had not been shot at and that it was in fact a small little shit lobbing a fire cracker. We just had to be rocking through Libya the day after Mohammed, the Prophets birthday, a major celebration in Libya so fire works and crackers were in abundance!
A little bit of hysterical laughter later we continued on with the rest of the journey which was pretty uneventful in comparison. As the towns built up heading into Tripoli the driving became more mental and required space hopper sized testicles to ride through it. Some roads provided much amusement, particular one butchers street. For the entire length of the road the tiny crammed pavement shops displayed freshly decapitated and dripping goats, cows and camel heads. It was like a Predators trophy road, with many of the animals with their spinal cords still intact and blood running black into the drains. Half way down the road rocking gently in time to the drumming traffic there was a camels head in the middle, tongue lulled out, eyes open in shock (not surprising really!) Quite a sight to see!
We finally make it into Tripoli where we both sigh a relief after a long long day. Tripoli is a stark contrast to what we were expecting on the sea front with its tall impressive buildings, shops and streets which aren’t too dissimilar to what you would find in London. It’s all very modern and awash with a general feeling of liveliness and normality. Whilst waiting for our family friend to come find us we were generously given a display of dough-nutting and wheelies by a fellow motorcyclist who stopped all traffic to give us the pleasure!
Mohammed turns up and after smiles and hugs we are guided back to his restaurant – Al Athar – a stunning and most beautiful set up opposite Marcus Aurelius Archway in central Tripoli. Despite being absolutely filthily and smelly we are welcomed into the restaurant by all and then are proceeded to be refreshed with a gorgeous mint and lemon cocktail. Food wise we are treated to meat soup, dips, mixed salad and a traditional Libyan Clay Pot camel meat meal with cous cous. For afters we cannot refuse a caramel creme desert too! An absolutely king size and quality meal we cannot recommend enough to all who visit Tripoli! It is a must do!!
During our meal we find ourselves smiling at each other. What a bizarre day and quite a surreal moment! Here we are, eating the most divine meal ever, in a simply breath taking setting over looking a roman ruin with the rolling mediterraen sea in the distance at complete peace… we felt a million miles away from a worn torn country.
After we are taken to Al Khan, a hotel in the Old City. When we enter we are greeted by open aired court yards with a dipping pool and a very relaxed and absolutely stunning arabic environment. Completed with archways and tastefully decorated with stunning arabic relics, we are guided to our room which is just a complete sight of luxury.
Shattered and simple stuffed, we pass on our thanks and shortly after a hot shower collapse in a state of bliss. This Libya crossing was turning out to be pretty amazing :)